Author Archives: webguru

Patriot – Colorado

Directions: From the intersection of Hwy 25 and Academy (i83) on the south end of Colorado Springs continue 1.8 miles west to i115 South.  Take i115 about 26 miles to 3rd street (at the beginning of the city of Penrose).  A sign points you towards Brush Hollow Reservoir go right (west) on 3rd for two blocks then turn right on E street.  Take E St. straight (do not follow the road to the right or left) for about 3 miles.  You will have passed over two cattle guards by this time when you come to a metal sign on the left pointing you to the Independence Trail System.  Turn left and go .2 miles to the large sign informing you about this trail system.  After reading the sign go left down to the trail head.

Camping is available all over the area and many fire pits have already been formed.

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Patriot is a technically challenging trail to say the least.  Although the trial is relatively short, about .8 miles, plan on spending 5 hours without breakage  and much more with.  Body damage and breakage is likely on this trail.  Extra axles, tie rods, drive shafts, etc. are recommended parts to bring with you.PA010027.JPG (18919 bytes)

You start out on the Independence trail that takes you down a steep hill and through several boulder fields for about 300 yards. At PA010029.JPG (20021 bytes)this point it is decision making time. To your right is the Freedom trail which is exactly that: “Freedom.”  Then you get into the really gnarly stuff. Ahead you have a four foot shelf you must drop down  and two more off  camber drops as you make your way to the canyon floor.  You will continue for about 200 yards to the fork in the road.  To the right the Patriot Trail, to the left the Liberty trail.PA020043.JPG (20478 bytes)

After making it through the Independence Trail leading up to the Patriot Trial you find yourself staring at a radical climb to the top of the canyon and your exit.  The first obstacle can be run in several ways and seems to break axles like they are tooth picks. 

After the first obstacle you have a boulder field with a wedge in the middle.  The wedge being two huge boulders that if not run properly will destroy your rocker panels trying to get over then.

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PA010037.JPG (17803 bytes)After making it  through the wedge you come upon what is being called the “a-hole”.  This obstacle seemed to be best run by driving straight up the left wall, then letting your  front end fall down into the hole. This approach gives you great air and a feeling of helplessness.  As you can see in the photos of the Extreme Jeep, you are in no real danger at this point.  You just happen to be looking straight up at the sky when pulling this maneuver. PA020051.JPG (18846 bytes)

Once past the “a-hole” you will traverse nearly 400 yards of difficult boulder field to get to the exit.  The exit is a steep hill climb with several steps and many boulders to get over. This trail is a great challenge for the hard core wheeler that wants to test their skills. The real challenge comes with the fact that most of the major obstacles must be taken on a curve, causing you to take them at weird approach angles.

Cliffhanger, Moab Utah

Directions to Cliffhanger Trail, Moab UT: Take Kane Creek Road (from the McDonald’s on the corner) approximately ½ mile to the yield sign. Veer left and continue on Kane Creek Road about 5.3 miles to the trailhead on the right. You will need to travel about 100 yards off the road before you find an open area. You can do this in 2WD or stop at the top to lock in and go down to the open area to air down.

So you want to get out and about in Moab, but you’d rather not spend all day doing just one trail. You also want somewhat of a challenge, but nothing death-defying. Don’t be afraid to take on the

Cliffhanger. Even though it’s appropriately named, the most dangerous part on this trail is the large obstacle to negotiate on the downhill slope on a pretty narrow section of a long shelf.

moab4021.jpg (16564 bytes)This trail starts out downhill, so you’ll want to air down before beginning. At the bottom, you cross none other than Kane Creek. The creek is normally not tough to cross, except for when it rains. And baby, when it rains, it pours! This is evident when Kane Creek occasionally floods, and adds a small possibility of quicksand to it. Not to worry, though, this is the easy part. After the creek, you’ll come face to face with a steep, rocky climb. At the top is a photo opportunity of Jackson Hole.

moab4023.jpg (16748 bytes)The trail then heads north, and the infamous shelf road begins. Thank goodness there is land to stop you if you go over, but the bad news is it’s almost 800 feet down! Don’t be ashamed to use a spotter on moab4024.jpg (20008 bytes)the shelf, since parts of it can get pretty tricky. There is a large boulder on this run that proves to be the most dangerous part, so take it easy and be smart about it. Screw up here, and away you go.

moab4027.jpg - 25202 BytesAfter the shelf, go west young man (or woman), and cross an easy plateau. After this, turn right, and take on the huge ledge onto an area of slickrock. The good part is smooth slickrock the rest of the way. The bad part is that you will lose sight of the trail. Just keep moab4025.jpg (11817 bytes)heading to the southwest, shooting for the notch at the top. This is where the trail ends, and you get another beautiful view. Then it’s time to pull a 180 and go back. Remember, going back down the shelf, whoever is going uphill has the right of way.

Although this trail is not recommended for beginners, it does not require expertmoab4026.jpg (24326 bytes) experience. Just common sense, a bit of practice, and a spotter. Along with some spectacular views, Cliffhanger can be done round trip in less than three hours, so it’s great for a morning or lunch run.


Do It Yourself Durabak

Do It Yourself Durabak


After transporting mountain bikes to and from the mountains a few times, my sister wanted to put some kind of bed liner in the bed of her truck. 

TheMVC-013F.JPG (27527 bytes) last truck she had we put a plastic bed liner in and weren’t pleased with it.  So this time she wanted something different.  There were only two other options, a commercial spray in bed liner or a do it your self bed liner from Durabak.  She chose the Durabak.

MVC-001F.JPG (65126 bytes)The first thing to do is to prep the area of the bed to  be Durabak-ed.  We cleaned it with water, then used a air hose to completely dry the bed and remove any foreign material from the area.  Once the bed is dry we taped off the area of the bed and tailgate that is not to be lined.  This tape line will be the edge of the Durabak so it needs to be at the correct position.  Edith also wanted a tailgate MVC-004F.JPG (57214 bytes)protector, so I installed it at thistime so we could drill all the holes before the liner is applied.  I then removed the tailgate protector.  There was also a cover on the inside of the tailgate that we removed so it would not become a permanent part of the tailgate.  We started prepping the surface with 220 grit sand paper on a DA.  It worked well on the flatter surfaces, but the other harder to MVC-002F.JPG (58516 bytes)reach areas had to be done by folding the paper in half and scuffing by hand.  The idea is to sand the paint to take the shine out so the Durabak has a rough surface to bond to.  This process could be done all by hand if you don’t have access to air tools.
MVC-006F.JPG (68931 bytes)Once the area has a dull finish it’s time to clean the surface.  We washed with water, then air dried it.  If there are any shiny spots they need to be scuffed MVC-008F.JPG (15369 bytes)again at this time.  After the area was air dried we wiped it down with Xylene on a clean rag.  It’s a good idea to wear  rubber gloves as not to irritate your skin. We again air dried the bed to make sure everything was clean.MVC-003F.JPG (52989 bytes)Now is the time to mask everything off that will not be lined.  I used 1 inch masking tape to make the first edge then a 2 inch masking tape to make a area to put the plastic.  I would like to stress that you need to cover everything that is not to be Durabak-ed.
MVC-015F.JPG (69185 bytes)I used a Binks #18 undercoating spray gun to apply the Durabak to our project.  Following the instructions carefully I used a stir stick to mix the material up.  I used a clean mixing can to mix the Durabak and Xylene.  A mix of 20% Xylene to 80% Durabak sprayed at 25 lbs. seemed to work the best.  I filled the material cup about 75% full so I could keep the material mixed by sloshing it in the cup.  The material tends to separate quickly. I sprayed in the early afternoon with full sun, the temperature was around 80MVC-015F.JPG (62964 bytes)and the humidity was low.  I made a couple of test patterns to make sure everything was okay and then applied the first coat lightly so there would not be any runs or sags.  I let it become tacky which took about 30 minutes, then applied the second coat.  The second coat is applied more heavily with the drying time about the same.  I did apply a third coat the same as the second.  The spray gun should be cleaned between each coat and after you have finished so the material doesn’t set up in the gun.  If you get any Durabak on your skin remove it right away with the Xylene or you will wear it off.
MVC-003F3.JPG (58648 bytes)After the last coat is applied the masking needs to be removed and disposed of.  When removing the tape I pulled the tape towards the Durabak so the tape line was very clean.  It’s hard not to get a little material on your hands when removing the masking.  A little Xylene on a rag was all I needed to get it off.  Well it’s about done, and we shut the tailgate and sent Edith home.  It took about five hours to do the whole job.  I installed the cover and protector on the tailgate a couple of days latter.  It looks great!
                                                                                                          MVC-001F2.JPG (75494 bytes)I used a roll of 1 inch, a roll of 2 inch masking tape, 3 plastic drop cloths, 1 stir stick, 1 mixing paint can, 5 220 grit sanding sheets, 3 quarts of black Durabak, 1/2 gallon of  Xylene, and a little hard work.  Durabak can be applied with a brush, or a roller also.  Normally Durabak can be subject to light foot traffic within 12 hours.  The coating should not be subjected to cleaning or chemical exposure until fully cured, in 2-4 days. 

WARN 97600 9.5cti-s Winch with Synthetic Rope


The 9.5cti-s is the newest addition to the WARN Ultimate Performance winch lineup. A massive protective structure combined with sophisticated operator feedback delivers fast line speeds, and long duty cycle. This is the perfect winch for the serious off roader. Features 100 feet by 3/8” WARN Spydura synthetic rope. WARN Spydura synthetic rope is a…

Body Armor JK-6124 Roof Rack Base


Body Armor Roof Rack Base features easy bolt on installation by attaching to the windshield hinges and at the frame at the rear. It is made from 2 inch 0.120 wall tube for strength and style. This roof rack base is complete with front light bar that holds 4 lights and a rear light bar.


An important decision.

This decision can be more important than your vehicle choice. Fortunately if you make the wrong choice there are hundreds of four wheeling clubs throughout the U.S. and Canada. The state associations in your area can assist you in finding the right club for you. Clubs vary in size, participation level, and difficulty level. If you are just getting into organized four wheeling you should plan to visit several clubs before making your decision

Size can matter when dealing with your club selection. In most cases you will find that the larger clubs have more trail rides and events available for you. On the down side a larger club can at times treat the members like a number.
Ssgp2422_small  Another important aspect of finding the right club is the average age of the members. For example a retired couple may not want to become part of a teenage/twenty something kind of club, they tend to travel the most difficult trails without regard for vehicle and at times body. Regardless of your age you should look for a variety of people, ages and skill levels in the club you join.

For you to have a successful and fun time in the club you select, you should ask about the amount of participation that is required by the club. Many clubs offer an associate membership that allows you to go on trails rides and to get the
Gloves1_smallnewsletter. A full membership means that you should plan on being at the club meetings, to go on several trail rides and to potentially become an officer or chairperson in the club. Another important aspect of your selection is what kind of trips are planned. Does the club trips typically require an over night/weekend stay, day trips, do they go out of state, and what is the frequency of trips. Does the club participate in trail maintenance and what trails do they sponsor?

Testing your limits is not an unusual occurrence when attending a trip with a club. However, passing your limits to the point of being dangerous is something most wheelers avoid. When interviewing a club that you want to join make sure you know
image001_small1 what type of trails they tend to run. If they mainly run top rated trails and your skill level is not to that point you should find a different club. Be honest with yourself, there is plenty of time to build your skills to a level of handling any trail out there. Some clubs require a certain make of vehicle and/or skill level, it is your responsibility to make sure yours matches theirs.

All in all organized four wheeling gives you an opportunity to tune your skills in a safer environment while meeting other people with similar interest. We encourage you to find a club that meets with your four wheeling techniques and personal requirements. Look for clubs that belong to the state and national association, look for a club that subscribes to the tread lightly philosophy.

Scrambled Eggs ’81 Jeep

Nick Name: Scrambled eggs Home Page:  
Make: Jeep Email Address:  
Model: Scrambler Location:  
Year: 81

Bill Stimmel owner of
“Bill’s Auto and 4×4 Repair /MudBug Motor Sports, Muskogee, Ok. has
used a lot of his time and all his technical experience building this
classic Jeep.

is an 81 Scrambler built with power and traction in mind. The small block
chevy is bored 30 over with
flat top forged TRW pistons, Lunatti
cam ,closed chamber ported polished 202 heads, Roller rockers. The Holly
Pro-jection. Ceramic coated Headers, Flow master mufflers, K & N
filter keep this powerhouse in fuel and air.
Attached to the engine you will find.
a Turbo 400 mated to a dana
300 t case with twin stick chrome molly front shaft.

A rear 9″ with 35 spline
axles, full spool, and 4.88

along with a narrowed Dana 44 with Detroit 4.88 gears in front deliver the
power to the trail through 39.5x18x15 Boggers on bead lock wheels.


With so much put into the drive
train Bill had to build a custom suspension to carry it all. The 21/2 pro
comp springs, grease-able shackles spring over with over the spring
steering make this rig a comfortable yet extreme ride.

Practicle upgrades make up the
changes inside with Pro-comp liquid filled gauges, Summit Racing seats, 5
point harness, Hurst slap stick shifter.

Last but not least, Bill
installed a Ramsey Pro 9000winch, Optima battery,100amp alternator and
roll cage in case of  ooops!

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Color: white
Engine: 305 ci-30 over
Tranny: Turbo 400
Tcase: 300 t
Fr. Locker:  
Rear Axle: ford 9″
Rr. Locker: Detroit
Gear Ratio 4:88
Crawl Ratio:  
RTI Score:  
RTI Ramp   
Wheel Base:  



Rear Tow


Fr. Tow


on board air 

Full Cage

Pokey ’85 Toyota



Nick Name: Pokey Home Page:  
Make: Toyota Email Address:  
Model:   Location: Colorado, USA
Year: 86-85

Affectionately named Pokey by its owner this Toyriffic Toyota climbs almost everything in its path.

Sporting 36″ Super Swamper tires Pokey seems to make the toughest obstacles look easy.  A u-bolt flip, 4″ superlift springs, custom cross over steering with IFS steering box, Marlink tie-rod and draglink, and custom steering arms up front with a ’86 rear axle, 3.5″superlift springs in the rear make clearing the big meats possible.  The custom paint job was applied by Ryan and his uncle Richard.

Pokey is an appropriate name for this truck. The Marlin double transfer case with one 4:1 and one stock gearset Marlin Crawler with 4.38 gears front and rear keep this vehicle moving at a snails pace.

As a master welder, Ryan had no problem reducing the size of the truck bed by 12″. This gives Pokey the short wheel base needed for serious rock crawling.

The 5 speed tranny out of a 86 Toyota along with vented front rotors from a FJ-40 add to the trail performance of this rig.

Front & Rear EZ Lockers make quick work of most terrain. For the rare times that he needs help getting over an obstacle a 9000lb winch is bolted up front to his custom bumper. The interior roll cage keeps the driver safe when the wrong side is up.

All an all this ride may not look very pretty, but it will crawl over some of the worse terrain in the nation.

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Drive Train
Engine: 22r
Tranny: 5 speed
Tcase: Marlin double
Axle Information
Front Axle  
Fr. Locker: EZ locker
Rear Axle:  
Rr. Locker: EZ locker
Gear Ratio 4:1
Spec Sheet
Crawl Ratio:  
RTI Score:  
RTI Ramp   
Wheel Base:  
Lift: 4″ superlift
Bolt-On Mod’s
Custom Mod’s
Winch GPS

Rear Tow


Fr. Tow CB 

on board air 

Full Cage